1880s "Blue Jay”Asymmetrical Bodice

After many months my first foray into the 1880s in finally completed! I have completed the combinations, corset, lobster tail bustle, underskirt, and overskirt. I now have only one piece left, the bodice! I decided to make this bodice asymmetrical which was a popular choice for the mid-1880s, which is the time span I’m going with for this ensemble. I made this bodice using the same navy cotton twillI used for the underskirt. I made this bodice using a modified version of the 1885 Riding Habit found in Prior Attire’s "The Victorian Dressmaker".

The first step was to cut out all the pieces from cotton twill and all the pieces, save for the sleeve pieces, from muslin as well. There were 14 pieces in all:

• a right front piece

• a left front piece

• two side front pieces

• two side back pieces

• two back pieces

• two collar pieces

• two upper sleeve pieces

• two under sleeve pieces

I then flatlined all the pieces using my serger.

The first step was to sew the center back seam. The seam was sewn just a little past the pleat extension.

The pleat extension was the pleated into an inverted box pleat and ironed.

The side back pieces were then sewn to the back pieces, using a 1/2” seam allowance. The pleat was also tacked in place by hand.

The side front pieces were then sewn to the side back pieces in a similar manner.

Since this bodice is asymmetrical the left front laps over the right front piece. Here is the two pictured so you can see the difference.

The four darts seen above were sewn as well as the shoulder seams.

Now the body of the bodice is constructed I turned to the collar. One piece was interfaced using collar weight interfacing. The straight edge of the other piece was turned up by 1/2” and ironed.

I then sewed on a band of white velvet ribbon on the collar by machine.

I then sewed the collar onto the bodice matching up the center fronts.

The non-interfaced collar piece was then sewn right sides together to the interfaced one.

After the collar was turned right sides out I hand finished the collar, covering all raw edges.

I then turned under the edges of the bodice and secured them in place by hand.

I then sewed on another band of white velvet trim the the lower edge of the bodice, 3/4” from the bottom of the bodice.

I then sewed another band of white velvet trim to the left front piece, again 3/4” away from the edge.

I then sewed seven hook and eyes to the center front of the bodice. They are sewn in a diagonal line due to the diagonal nature of the overlap.

I then sewed a piece of twill tape to the center back seam at the waist line. This is tied around the waist and helps keep the back of the bodice flush with the back of the body. I didn't end up boning this bodice because I was on a deadline and didn't have time. I will however go back and bone the bodice when I have the time.

I then my attention to the sleeves. I sewed the under sleeves and upper sleeves together by machine.

The sleeves were then hemmed by 1” by hand.

I then sewed a band of white velvet trim to the bottom of the sleeves, 3/4” away from the edge, by machine.

I then sewed the final band of white velvet trim 1” away from the previous band.

I then set the sleeves by machine, matching up the center of the under sleeve with the side seam.