1900s "Duchess" Combinations

I was sorely out of fashion with my undergarments when it came to this era. I was still using my 1860s chemise for my S-Bend Corset and that just won’t do so I decided to make some new ones. Some frilly, lacely Edwardian unmentioanbles. During this era, combinations of a chemise and drawers joined at the waist were popular. I used the Truly Victorian Edwardian Combinations pattern with the shaped french drawers and evening cover options. For my fabric I used some 100% linen bedsheets I picked up at Goodwill.

The first step was the cut out the 19 pieces that make up the combinations. The two fronts and accompanying front facings, the back piece, two waistbands, two drawers, six pieces that make up the two flounces (one for each leg), and the four straight ruffle pieces. The pieces were then serged to finish.

*WARNING*

I did not read to instructions till I near finished my combinations, therefore I cut and attached both a flounce and a straight ruffle to my drawers. This was WRONG! I should have chosen one or the other. Since I used both my combinations are a little long. Just some forewarning to READ YOUR INSTRUCTIONS!

The first step in assembly was to attach the front and back pieces at the side seam and the front facings to either side of center front, right sides to right sides.

The front facings were then ironed towards the inside of the garament and finished by hand using whip stiches and linen thread.

I then finished the drawers off with machine sewn bias tape forgoing the facings included with the pattern. I then seamed together the bottom of each drawer forming a hole for the leg to go through.

I then set aside the drawer pieces and focused on the ruffles. There were four straight ruffle pieces, which I sewed together to form two tubes of two pieces each.

I then sewed some beauitful antique lace from ToLaceWithLove on Etsy onto the hem of each ruffle tube, and since it was already sergerd the seam was finished.

I then sewed the front, middle, and side of each flounce together twice, to make one flounce for each leg. I then sewed some insertion lace, again from ToLaceWithLove, about 2 inches away from the bottom edge of the flounce. (insertion lace tutorial)

I then gathered the two ruffles to the two flounces by hand the seamed them together by machine.

I then turned to the top part of the combinations. I added straps of the same lace I used on the hem of the ruffles to marks indicated my the pattern. I did leave a little excess I case they ever needed adjustment. I then added some lace to the neckline by hand.

Turning my attention back to the drawers I gathered the flounce to the drawer proper, thus finishing the bottom half of the combinations.

Notcing the drawers were a little long (read directions folks) I added two 1” tucks on the straight ruffle. I measured 2” from the bottom then 1” from there , matched the two lines together and ironed it. I then sewed 1/2” away from the fold, forming a 1/2” tuck. I then repeated the process.

Now it was time for the waistband. I ironed by 1/2” on one wasitband, which became the inside waistband. The top half of the combinations was then sandwhiched in between the two waistbands and gathered to fit.

I then gathered the drawers to the bottom edge of the outer waistband, overlaying drawers at the center back for modesty sake.

I then folded over the inner waistband and pinned in down over the seam thus finishing it. I sewed the waistband down in a similar manner to the front facings.

I then sewed the buttonholes by hand using white buttonhole twist and added four faux pearl buttons. Remember this garment is meant to be worn under a corset thus keep that in mind while chossing buttons. Don’t chose buttons with a shank or those that are very thick overwise they will leave a bruise.