1830s “Aquila” Bonnet

I started this bonnet back in March 2020 and I finally finished it last week! I am really happy with how it turned out. Bonnets during the early 1830s where (like everything else) crazy. “Too much” was not a phrase it their fashion vocabulary and hopefully I achieved the right level of craizness with this bonnet. I used the 1830s bonnet pattern from Black Snail Patterns. I called this bonnet “Aquilia” which is Latin for “eagle” because the colorway of the bonnet reminded me of the bird’s.

The first step was to cut out the three pattern pieces (crown, brim, and top) from buckram. 18 gauge aluminum wire was then sewn across the pink lines (see picture) and around the perimeter of each piece.

The edges of each piece were then covered with white bias tape. After the piece were wired then were attached by hand using whip stitches.

Now it was time to constuct the lining for which I used the “cotillion” silk taffeta from Silk Baron. Here you see me seweing togther the top and crown pieces together. I then sewed the crown piece to the brim piece.

I then mulled the bonnet with cotton batting. The reason for this is to smooth out the bonnet so the fabric layer lies flat. I then attached the lining layer to the bonnet using whip stitches. I would suggest doing this step last though. I now know more about millenery now and doing the lining last leads to a cleaner look and finish.

I then covered the top, brim, and crown with sandalwood silk taffeta from Silk Baron. You can see the mulling mentioned previously better in this picture.

Before starting on trimming the bonnet I decided the inside brim needed something an little extra. I had this ivory lace in my stash and pleated it ino 1/2” knife pleats.

I attached the first row to the joint between the brim and crown. This length went from ear to ear.

I then attached another row that went from one edge of the bonnet to the other. I used a head mannequin to help me visualize where the trim should be placed.

I then attached a third and final row for maximum floofiness. All the rows were attached by hand using whip stitches.

Here is how the bonnet looked once it was all covered and ready for trimming! I was also now coming back to this bonnet a year after is was started.

The first step was to attach the ribbon ties. I attached a 2 yd. long ribbon to the top of the crown. It was then attached to the joint of the crown and brim with a pleat to help the ribbon hang down straight instead of at an angle.

I then pinned a 14” brown ostrich feather to either side of the bonnet, attaching them at the bottom of the joint of the brim and crown and at the top of the crown.

After those where attached I attached two light brown feathers on either side. This feathers where part of a larger branch that I cut down so I could use the feathes individually like this.

I then attached one rust colored paper flower to either side of the bonnet. All the trimmings are being attached by hand so I can re-trim the bonnet in the future if necessary or desired.

I then attched another type of brown feather to the center back of the crown.

After all the feathers and flowers were attached I decided to add some self-fabric trim as well. I cut five 8” squares into circles using scalloped pinking shears. I only ended by using three of the five circles I cut.

I then folded wach circle into halfs, than quarters, then sixths. I ran a gathering thread at the bottom and opened the circle up to create a flower.

Here is how the flowers looked once completed. This is a really simple trim to make and gives a really nice effect.

Three flowers where then sewn to the base of the crown.

I then decided it still wasn’t crazy enough and the bonnet needed bows. I made 5 loop bows using instructions and diagrams from ”

"The American Duchess Guide to 18th Century Dressmaking" . I cut two lengthes of ribbon, one four inches shorter than the other.

The ends of the shorter length were lapped and gathered into a simple bow.

The ends of the longer piece were lapped and gathered.

The longer piece was folded into thirds and gathered togther to create a center loop, the fifth loop that makes it a “5 loop bow”.

Once completed the two bows should be the same length.

The three loop bow was then layered on top of the two loop bow and sewn.

The bows where sewn to the bottom of the crown/brim joint to help hide the ends of the all the other trim and to complement the ribbon ties.